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Reptile Forum, Reptile Classifieds - CaptiveBred A site to share your Reptile experiances & ask questions
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boooger Contributing Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2006 Posts: 152 Location: Chester
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Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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God im no expert.... and still learning all the time.
there are others on this forum with loads more experience than me and one of them has 250 royals.......
I normally give my royals about a week to settle, thats means ill leave it under its hide and not bother it at all. All i will do is change water.
The 1st feeding day after the week is up i offer it food. If it refuses then its next chance is the next feed day. My little royals im feeding every 4 days.
If i had your royal and this was its 1st refusal id leave it another 3 or 4 days before trying again.
How are you feeding it? You mentioned florida, does that mean your live feeding?
But this 1 refusal so soon after moving him is not a worry. _________________ royals
leos
turtles
carpets
fat tails |
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robje29 Key Member
Joined: 13 Feb 2007 Posts: 223 Location: Devon
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Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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I would like to add that although smaller housing for royals tends to be better, as stated by some on this thread they keep theres in larger housing with no problems, I knew a person that kept 2 royals in a viv 2mx1mx1.5m, totally oversized in my opinion but the royals did fantastic in there with no problems ever!
Rob |
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Scott W Site Admin

Joined: 15 Apr 2004 Posts: 13355 Location: London, England.
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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:00 am Post subject: Re: Glass Tank for Royal |
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snakelily wrote: |
You probably will need a lot more than just one heat mat. I have right now 2 heat mats as well as an overhead bulb to keep the temp. steady at about 93 degrees on the hot side for basking, and 80 degrees on the cool side. This is what they require, with a humidity of 70 - 80 % (which can easily achieved with one large water bowl). Get 2 thermometers, one for each end, and some kind of indicator that shows the humidity. Often you can get a thermometer and a humidity thing in the same pack. This is extremely important for many reasons, all of which the manuals explain.
Hides should be available in each temperature zone so the snake can choose. They are very secretive and need to feel secure.
Which leads me to the size tank you mention. I don't see any reason why a hatchling can't be in a large tank as long as it has enough hiding places. In the wild, hatchlings also have, well, the whole wild. As long as you provide TIGHT hides so that the snake really has to squeeze in there and feel the sides against the body , it will feel safe, and yet, it will have the space and stimulation to explore in the night time when it is ready to do so. I really don't see why you can't have a large tank and let the snake grow into it. I feel this is sort of the ideal scenario.
As far as overhead light, not only do you need it for basking heat, but also to establish a firm circadian rhythm. I noticed with all my snakes that with an overhead light on a timer, their days/nights are more regulated, which by the way comes in very handy at feeding times. When you are standing there with that thawed mouse in your hand you want the snake to be awake and ready and not wonder what the heck is going on, why isn't it out when it was out yesterday at this time... With an overhead light that simulates night and day at specific hours they emerge from their hiding places at around the same time, and they disappear again in the early morning. This is what they experience in nature.
Also, they need at least 9 or 10 hours of darkness. If you want to see them in the dark, put an infrared light into your aluminum casing where you have your uv light in during the day, and you can see it, but it can't see you bec. their eyes do not see the infrared. Also, the infrared overhead will help keep the temperature up should it be needed.
Be careful when you buy the light bulb for the day time, it should have what they call a "tight beam," so that the heat is concentrated on one spot only and not heat up the entire ambient temperature in the viv in which case of course you won't have that temperature gradient anymore that is so necessary.
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Great post, spot on! _________________
Please DO NOT pm orders for reptiles, send email instead scott@captivebred.co.uk |
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snakelily Contributing Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 51
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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, Scott!
Quote: | and one of them has 250 royals....... |
Boooger, you are kidding, right? You meant to type 25? Even that would be a lot.
So far she hasn't refused to eat yet, I just got her and it seems she is still digesting. (She ate three fuzzies and a pinkie, and then I took her straight home in the same box.) We'll see what happens on Monday.
Supposedly she eats like a pig and only knows frozen. That's why I jumped at the opportunity - otherwise I would have opted for a slightly older snake, like 6 or 8 months. I saw one in a store the other day that I really liked a lot, but it was on live food and I just don't want to deal with another snake that needs to be retrained...
No, I'm not feeding live, even though this is Florida. (So this is the reputation we have over here, hmm?) I don't believe in it, though a lot of people I know do. Only my hognose is on live pinkies right now, and only because that was how she was raised when I bought her, and I haven't been able to transfer her to frozen yet. (She did eat frozen for me twice.) |
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boooger Contributing Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2006 Posts: 152 Location: Chester
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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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LoL, no. The 0 is meant to be there with the 25.
Thats turning into a full time job!
Ive only had something to do with two americans that keep snakes and both of them live feed, thats what made me ask. I dont dont suppose every single american does though. _________________ royals
leos
turtles
carpets
fat tails |
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