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dantro
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Joined: 14 Jun 2007
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Location: Essex
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 Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 11:53 am Post subject: |
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Yeah i think ur right about the summer .... Sounds like it may just work ...
Im going for a kind of 6" substrate but i may make it deeper, cant go much deeper as it will be overflowing my viv ... What are u going to do, and hat are u gonna use?
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Dan
1.1.0 Ackies (10 eggs cooking) 4.9.6 Stenodactylus S. (22 eggs cooking)
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Jase
Captivebred Colonel
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 2602
Location: Wolverhampton
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| Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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Well I haven't even decided if i'm getting any. I don't know anywhere that has any for a start!
I was thinking a tub full of dirt (read 70:30, playsand:dirt) covered in rocks and a shallow substrate of the same. In theory the tub should give them the humidity and allow them to display natural burrowing behaviour. I was thinking about a Rete's Stack or piling up rocks to make a natural one, underneath the basking spot.
I'm one of those meticulous planners so it'll be ages before I get any - took me 5 years from deciding I wanted to get Chameleons!
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dantro
CaptiveBred Addict!
Joined: 14 Jun 2007
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Location: Essex
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| Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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Thats is meticulous and some hefty planning! .... im kinda the other way roun soon as i decided to get something im there, getting it sorted soon as! ...
Im gonna go for a 50:50 playsand and block substrate that u soak ( can never remember the name of it) ... Gonna do a stack too though lots of little nooks and a few braches so there's plenty of places for them to hide and squeeze into and some nice floor space to chase food ...
This is the viv they are going into ... ive gotta refurbish it and re-arrange the heating but thats the basic shape .....
Should be big enough for 2 ...
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Dan
1.1.0 Ackies (10 eggs cooking) 4.9.6 Stenodactylus S. (22 eggs cooking)
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Jase
Captivebred Colonel
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 2602
Location: Wolverhampton
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| Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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I believe they are mainly terrestrial so a longer rather than taller viv would probably be better from what I've read. I was thinking of having a 4ft long viv by 2ft tall by 1.5ft-2ft wide.
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dantro
CaptiveBred Addict!
Joined: 14 Jun 2007
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Location: Essex
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| Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:30 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah i think u may be right but im gonna build it up at the back with some sort of brick steps so there's plenty of nooks and ledges too ... i think it'll work out ok ... Im sure they'll be plenty of space for them ... Its the best thing setting the viv .. well apart from actually getting them too of course!
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Dan
1.1.0 Ackies (10 eggs cooking) 4.9.6 Stenodactylus S. (22 eggs cooking)
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Jase
Captivebred Colonel
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 2602
Location: Wolverhampton
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| Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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Ye good idea about the shelves, you gonna have it done by Friday?! 
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dantro
CaptiveBred Addict!
Joined: 14 Jun 2007
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Location: Essex
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| Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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Well i dont know about that but i'll give it a go! ....
Just gotta start planning now ... see what the best materials are gonna be ...
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Dan
1.1.0 Ackies (10 eggs cooking) 4.9.6 Stenodactylus S. (22 eggs cooking)
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Jase
Captivebred Colonel
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Location: Wolverhampton
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| Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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Might make mine a bit taller and do a polystyrene feature background 
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crocdoc
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Joined: 07 Dec 2005
Posts: 262
Location: Sydney Australia - best address on Earth :)
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| Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:33 pm Post subject: |
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| dantro wrote: | | So one ceramic in the centre set quite low, and then a spot bulb as the basking spot, Should the spot be on all the time or set on a dimming thermostat? |
That depends on how hot it gets in there with the flood light on and how variable your house temperature is. Rather than get an expensive dimming thermostat, get a cheap on/off one and use it as a 'kill' switch. That's what I was getting at here:
| crocdoc wrote: | Whether or not the basking lights need to be on a 'kill switch' (a thermostat set high with the probe at the cool end of the enclosure - essentially insurance against the monitors overheating when there's a heat wave) will depend on whether or not your home is airconditioned.
...In summer, I plug the basking light into the thermostat and keep the ceramics off entirely (my place is warm in summer). |
I don't have central heating or air-conditioning, so the temperature can be quite variable in my place: cool in winter, hot in summer. I use one thermostat for each enclosure. In summer it controls the ceramic heat emitter to keep the ambient temperature warm against the cool room temperature. In summer I don't use the ceramic at all, but then use the thermostat as a 'kill' switch on my basking light. The probe remains at the cool end of the enclosure. In winter it is set to a reasonable ambient temperature (~27 for littlies), but in summer it is set to as high as the thermostat will go (~35C). The enclosure is large enough that the basking light alone will not keep the temperature at that end of the enclosure at 35C, of course, but this ensures that the basking light is on all of the time during the day. However, on really hot days, if the cool end of the enclosure hits 35C the basking light switches off. That prevents the enclosure getting much hotter, which could be dangerous. |
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dantro
CaptiveBred Addict!
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Location: Essex
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| Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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Im not too sure what u mean by Kill switch? ... what im trying to avoid is a spot linked to a thermostat thats not a dimmer and it continually switching on and off .... I may have to give this some thought, and see what i can come up with ... one spot may be ok in the summer with no heat at night but a ceramic on low for night may work ok ... I may have to go with dimmer just for the added control and to stop the spot doing the on and off thing all the time ..
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Dan
1.1.0 Ackies (10 eggs cooking) 4.9.6 Stenodactylus S. (22 eggs cooking)
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