Reptile Forum, Reptile Classifieds - CaptiveBred

[vetdave]

Mites and Ticks
Both ticks and mites of several species are occasionally found on reptiles. These are both small insects that feed of animals by sucking the blood from the superficial layers of their skin. Ticks are usually only found in wild caught animals as their size and slower life cycle makes them easier to spot and treat. Mites can be much more of a problem particularly on a collection or shop basis because they are much more difficult to see in small numbers, breed rapidly and spread from cage to cage with ease.
They are both detrimental as they cause skin irritation(often causes snakes to bathe in their water bowls for extended periods) and scarring. Perhaps more importantly however, they can spread disease from reptile to reptile within a collection. The most important of these being viral infections (The most notable disease being Boid Inclusion Body Disease in snakes, which causes vomiting and neurological problems). Bad cases of chronic skin irritation often causes skin thickening and infection and can cause depression and inappetance, stunting of the animals growth and abscessation. Snake mites are usually one of three types. i) True snake mites(O.natricis) - these are black in colour and are probably the ones of greatest concern. ii) Lizard mites (H.trombidiiformis) - these are normally a red colour and can spread to snakes from lizards. iii) Various substrate mites - these are usually just little mites and other small arthropods that come in to the vivarium in the substrate. They are usually not pathogenic in themselves and should be concentrated randomly throughout the vivarium and substrate rather than concentrated on the snake. They will often breed in the substrate in warm humid conditions and I guess they are mildly irritant, but far less so than the two previously mentioned types.
In order to get rid of these troublesome pests there are several methods available.

Manual removal -This is particularly easy in poorly pigmented animals where the adults themselves are visible but even in these cases will only decrease the numbers as smaller stages will be missed. The method is obviously easier with large ticks than small mites but any way of reducing adult numbers will help.

Shop Products-There are several products on the market offered by shop as anti-mite/tick sprays e.g. Biomite (T-rex), Protector (Four Paws) and lots of others. These appear to be pretty safe and are certainly worth trying especially if you only have a single animal. Follow the directions on the product and see if the mites clear. They are safe, cheap and available off the shelf without prescription, but often seem to cut down the numbers but not eliminate the problem.

Vapona- this is the trade name of the original product, but is now no longer available in the Uk. However some people seem to bring in back from other countries where it and other similar insecticidal strips are still available. These strips are very effective when placed in a dry cage for 48 hours, removed for 7-10 days, repeating the process 3-4 times over several weeks. This is effective and safe when used correctly ie never use this in a wet environment ie treat a common boa in an open cage but not a blood python in a sweater tray. The excessive moisture facilitates absorption of the product through the skin and causes neurological side effects (Indigo snakes seem especially sensitive). It will also be toxic to many soft bodied lizards after prolonged exposure, so it is not suggested that you use it in the presence of such species.

Oramec spray - this is a worming solution for sheep but is the cheapest form of a water soluble ivermectin that can be sprayed over the entire animal, cage, water bowl etc. Its activity is limited to it being in solution and thus once dry offers little activity until wet again. This is about the safest all round treatment especially in animals that live in high humidity vivaria. It should be diluted 1 in 50 and sprayed on the animal daily for 3-5 days and then every other day for 2-3 weeks. In dry environments it may also be of benefit to spray the animal with water later the same day as this rehydrates the product and thus makes it active again without applying any further product. This is a prescription only product only available from your vet. (NB. Do not use in Chelonia as all ivermectins are very toxic to them.)

Ivermec injections - This is a more conventional means of using ivermectin. It is safe but difficult to use in small animals due to its dilution factor. Its benefits are that it is safe in wet conditions and its effects last 10-14 days from a single injection. Without other treatments eradication make take 3-4 injections 10-14 days apart but in combination with other methods of eradication to stop new hatchlings a single starting injection often helps the process. This can only be done by your vet.

Frontline Spray - this is a domestic pet anti-flea product containing the active ingredient Fipronil. It can only be purchased from your vets and once again should not be used in sweater trays or any humid environment. It is toxic to all invertebrates and must be used sparingly with Chelonia so be careful with its use. It needs to be applied to at least 50% of the animals surface area and allowed to dry off outside of the animals vivarium. This process can be repeated every 2 weeks or immediately after shedding which otherwise removes the frontline from the snake. This is a very useful product especially in large collections due to ease of use and residual activity on the animal between applications. NB. Do not use the 'spot on' versions of this product in reptiles!!

Other Methods - A good stage to get rid of snake mites is by rehousing immediately after helping the animal shed. The shed skin will retain all forms of the mite and none should be passed on. The placement of cellotape in an enclosed jar with small holes, may be useful in for instance spider mites where most chemicals that would kill the mite would also be detrimental to the spider.

Conclusions
The treatment I usually employ when presented with a case at the clinic is to start with an ivomec injection and then follow that up using either oramec spray in high humidity species or frontline in species living in dryer conditions. Treatment with a good product in itself is always successful but there is the tendency for the problem to recur if treatment is not continued on for long enough ie people stop as soon as they no longer see adult mites and fail to treat the environment with sufficient scrutiny.
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For more information on all my herping activities please visit the new website at www.prestigepythons.com

[Stuart]

Great post Dave I will make this a sticky also..superb info.
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[MJ]

I already did mate
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Paul

For all your Tropical plant and Naturalistic Vivarium needs please enjoy Urban Bromeliad

[kroakykaren]

Excellent info dave thank you
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[Stuart]

[Atrox08]

At work we use ivomec solution, soak the snake and then spray the viv so no need for injections.

[vetdave]

Ivomec is not water soluble in it's injectable form. It does form an emulsion but this is not as good as using the oramec which will distributes better. In addition the injection of a snake gives long acting effect...certainly over a period of several weeks but the sprays only last briefly. Thus if a big enough snake(difficult to dose small snakes) still best to inject them. If small then best to use topicals and best to use 'oramec' rather than Panomec or similar injectable ivermec versions emuslions.
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For more information on all my herping activities please visit the new website at www.prestigepythons.com

[penfold]

that is really interesting just wondered if you have tried the beaphor insect spray as we have that @ work enjoyed reading that and your post on crypto cheers
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[Rad]

great post Dave

would Oramec spray be OK to use with gravide females

[JohnC]

When using Frontline, I also wipe the viv walls with it to catch out any mites after the snake has been treated.
Excellent info from Dave.
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John
Oldest member, been keeping reptiles for 36 years.
Carpets, royals, rainbow boas, corns, milks, ackies and leos.