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Ailurus Captivebred Communist
Joined: 14 Sep 2006 Posts: 1626 Location: Hertfordshire, England
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Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 10:44 pm Post subject: asian rat snake info |
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can anyone give me some information on the care of the radiated rat snake (coelognathus radiata), Timor Ratsnake (Coelognathus (Elaphe) subradiatus) and the dinoe ratsnake (Elaphe dione).
is there care similar to that of the trinket snake, and what is their adult sizes?
thanks _________________ Tom
Snakes: :Pantherophis: :Coelognathus: :Lampropeltis: :Heterodon: :Antaresia:
Lizards: :Rhacodactylus: :Pogona: :Goniurosaurus:
http://www.youtube.com/user/Ailurus27 |
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Windy Contributing Member
Joined: 20 Dec 2005 Posts: 90 Location: Barwell E.midlands
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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:23 am Post subject: |
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Coelognathus subradiatus - 120-180cm
Coelognathus radiatus - 150-230cm
Both radiatus & subradiatus need a temp range between 74-85F and relative humidity of 70% and a humid hide. Both these species can be a little difficult throughout the first 12 months, especially so with subradiatus who even though seemingly doing well will roll for no apparent reason. They have an amazingly fast metabolism and require feeding twice a week, some breeders have reported that as little as three weeks refusing food is fatal to them. They are both defensive as hatchlings and unlike helena do not generally calm down in adulthood, although they go through an adolescent period where they are handlable without the 'S'ing up etc. - it doesn't last in my experience and they can never be trusted.
Elaphe dione - 60-70cm
Diones are a wonderful little species I would make the perfect 'Pet Snake' if it wasn't for the fact they require a long cold brumation period (3-4 months). They are a hardy captive, temps your looking for a warm end of 80-82F and a cooler region of 74F.
If your looking for more information on subradiatus and dione then try Gidi's website http://www.rareratsnakes.com or the Ratsnake Foundation have several articles on these species with a breeding account of subradiatus by Gidi being published next month.
Dione Ratsnake 'Normal'
Dione Ratsnake 'Cherskyi'
Dione Ratsnake 'Tenebrosa'
Dione Ratsnake 'Striped'
Subradiatus 'Timor Island'
subradiatus 'Hypermelanistic'
Sue x _________________ The Ratsnake Foundation
http://www.ratsnakefoundation.org
I'm told I talk in shorthand and then smudge it ! |
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Ailurus Captivebred Communist
Joined: 14 Sep 2006 Posts: 1626 Location: Hertfordshire, England
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Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 10:28 pm Post subject: |
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wow thanks that is a brilliant post, thanks windy _________________ Tom
Snakes: :Pantherophis: :Coelognathus: :Lampropeltis: :Heterodon: :Antaresia:
Lizards: :Rhacodactylus: :Pogona: :Goniurosaurus:
http://www.youtube.com/user/Ailurus27 |
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Windy Contributing Member
Joined: 20 Dec 2005 Posts: 90 Location: Barwell E.midlands
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 4:52 am Post subject: |
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your welcome if theres anything specific you want to know about any of them just yell _________________ The Ratsnake Foundation
http://www.ratsnakefoundation.org
I'm told I talk in shorthand and then smudge it ! |
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Ailurus Captivebred Communist
Joined: 14 Sep 2006 Posts: 1626 Location: Hertfordshire, England
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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thanks again.
just a quick questin. you mentioned about having to brumate dione rat snakes. Is this necessary or is that only for breeding purposes? _________________ Tom
Snakes: :Pantherophis: :Coelognathus: :Lampropeltis: :Heterodon: :Antaresia:
Lizards: :Rhacodactylus: :Pogona: :Goniurosaurus:
http://www.youtube.com/user/Ailurus27 |
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devboy Contributing Member
Joined: 06 Oct 2005 Posts: 113
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Posted: Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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I'll jump in in the Windy one's absence, most temperate snakes will stop eating anyway as the daylight hours reduce and the temperatures dip, so its not just for breeding really. However, in their first two years of life, some people elect to feed them throughout the year, if they don't voluntarily stop that is. _________________ www.ratsnakefoundation.org
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Ailurus Captivebred Communist
Joined: 14 Sep 2006 Posts: 1626 Location: Hertfordshire, England
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Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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great thankyou _________________ Tom
Snakes: :Pantherophis: :Coelognathus: :Lampropeltis: :Heterodon: :Antaresia:
Lizards: :Rhacodactylus: :Pogona: :Goniurosaurus:
http://www.youtube.com/user/Ailurus27 |
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Windy Contributing Member
Joined: 20 Dec 2005 Posts: 90 Location: Barwell E.midlands
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 1:24 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry Tom been pretty busy of late -
As Dev says - My hatchlings last year slowed down eating accepting food only every other feed but I managed to keep them going through the winter - this year they are still eating with gusto so I will be manually cooling them ... but I know other breeders who have to hibernate hatchlings and then every year regardless of whether they plan to breed from them - so it's a difficult one to answer really. I personally would brumate them after there first year - I believe it contributes to the general long term health of the snake and extends its life in captivity. _________________ The Ratsnake Foundation
http://www.ratsnakefoundation.org
I'm told I talk in shorthand and then smudge it ! |
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