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CONFUSED I'm new here...
Joined: 26 Nov 2005 Posts: 6 Location: SURREY
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:10 pm Post subject: ADVICE PLEASE |
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HI I'VE JUST BOUGHT A BALL, SHE'S MY FIRST SNAKE SO I'M NO EXPERT. SHE'S ABOUT 3 AND A HALF FEET LONG AND THE PREVIOUS OWNER TELLS ME SHE'S ABOUT 2. I LOVE HER SHE'S BEAUTIFUL BUT SHE HAS STARTED RUBBING HERSELF ON THE ROCKS IN THE VIV EVEN THOUGH SHE'S NOT SHEDDING. I BOUGHT A PYTHON BOOK AND AFTER READING AND FURTHER INVESTIGATION I HAVE NOTICED SMALL RED SPOTS ON HER BELLY NEAR HER HEAD. SHE KEEPS ESCAPING SO I KNOW SHE'S STRESSED . THE BOOKS NOT HELPING ME AND I DON'T WANT IT TO GET WORSE SO ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED |
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Dan Captivebred Communist
Joined: 08 Sep 2005 Posts: 1306
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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The best way to ask for help is to put up a bit of background so people can eliminate possible problems just by reading your initial post.
How long have you had her? Has she eaten for you? When was the last time she ate, important if not with you? What temperature are you keeping her at, does she have lots of hides? Does she have a good humidity level? What sort of vivarium have you got for her? How big is it?
Those are all good questions to answer in an initial post.
Ok the first thing after that lot that needs adressing is the escaping. She isn't escaping because she is stressed but the fact she is doing it will be stressing her out. The vivarium should be completely escape proof.
The rubbing thing, can you describe this in a bit more detail.
Have you got a camera so you can put pics of these spots up for people to look at? _________________ TFA
The future is bright, the future is a net like pattern.................
I'm NOT an expert, so if you don't want to know my opinion don't ask!! |
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CONFUSED I'm new here...
Joined: 26 Nov 2005 Posts: 6 Location: SURREY
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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I'VE HAD HER 3/4 WEEKS SHE HAS NOT EATEN FOR ME ALTHOUGH I DID OFFER HER A WEEK AFTER GETTING HER. I WAS TOLD PREVIOUS OWNER FED HER 2/3 WEEKS BEFORE I TOOK HER. SHE'S IN A GLASS 36X18X12 INCH VIV WITH A LARGE HIDE AT OPPOSITE END TO HEATER. HEATER RUNS AT 85-90 IN DAY AND 80-85 AT NIGHT. THE SPOTS ARE ALMOST LIKE A PINPRICK VERY SMALL ONLY TWO OR THREE OF THEM. SHE HAS A LARGE WATER DISH IN THERE WHICH SHE KEEPS TIPPING UP CREATING A LITTLE CONDENSATION AT THE OPPOSITE END TO THE HEATER. HOW DO I MEASURE HUMIDITY? I SPRAY ATMOSHERE WITH WATER TWICE A WEEK. SHE ESCAPED 3 TIMES IN THE FIRST WEEK THEN STOPPED FOR A BIT BUT AS NOW MANAGED TO FORCE TO WHOLE RUNNER OUT NOT JUST THE SLIDDING LID. |
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CONFUSED I'm new here...
Joined: 26 Nov 2005 Posts: 6 Location: SURREY
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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I THINK THE SPOTS ARE CAUSED BY MITES HAVING READ THIS BOOK, THERE DOES APPEAR TO BE ONE OR TWO TINY BLACK THINGS(I'M REALLY NOT SURE WHAT THEY ARE) IN THE BOTTOM OF THE DISH. |
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CONFUSED I'm new here...
Joined: 26 Nov 2005 Posts: 6 Location: SURREY
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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IT LOOKS LIKE SHE'S SCRATCHING THE AREA I SAID. NOT ALL THE TIME BUT SOMETHING IS DEFINATELY IRRITATING HER. SHE SORT OF PUTS HER CHIN ON THE ROCK ON RUBS HERSELF ON IT ALMOST LIKE A CAT I DON'T REALLY KNOW HOW BEST TO DESCRIBE IT |
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Dan Captivebred Communist
Joined: 08 Sep 2005 Posts: 1306
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Posted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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Just so you are aware, typing in caps lock LIKE THIS is classed as shouting on the internet and whole posts done in that way can be seen as rude. I'm gonna guess you didnt know that before, but now you do
Ok so we are talking 7 weeks for her not to have eaten. This may seem a long time but it is nothing to worry about just yet.
The hide situation needs rectifying. Royals are very shy creatures and need to feel safe at all times. By having your hide at the cool end you are forcing her to chose between safety and heat, safety will always win so she doesnt get the time to bask she should. I wouldn't suggest moving the hide but adding a minimum of one more in the hot end is a must.
The humidity sounds fine, no worries there.
The "scratching" could well be down to mites, if she has them. A VERY common thing for snakes to do when they have mites is for them to spend a lot of time inside the water bowl in an attempt to get rid of them. I would suggest you have a close look at her eye sockets and the fold of skin under her chin. If her eyes seem withdrawn slightly or you see white or black specks then the chances are she has mites. The white specks are mite crap and can be easiest seen on the eyes. Try to get one of the black specks from either the water bowl or off her then put it on your finger nail. Crush it between 2 finger nails (not a nail and finger pad as it wont work, it has to be 2 nails) and if it is mires you will either see the blood on your finger from a full mite or you will hear a pop as the mite is crushed.
If you decide/realise you have mites, it isnt the end of the world but do make sure you come back and tell us so we can direct you on the best course of action for you and your snake.
If there are no mites then we will carry on trying to find out what is wrong. _________________ TFA
The future is bright, the future is a net like pattern.................
I'm NOT an expert, so if you don't want to know my opinion don't ask!! |
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CONFUSED I'm new here...
Joined: 26 Nov 2005 Posts: 6 Location: SURREY
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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advice, offered her food last night and she ate, just wondering after eating when is it ok to handle her. |
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goldenburm Captivebred Colonel

Joined: 12 Sep 2005 Posts: 2109 Location: Chatteris, Cambs
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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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wait till your royal has had at least 4 or 5 feeds consecutively before attempting to handle, aftre that maybe 5-10 minutes at most, royals may seem as though they enjoy handling but they can get very stressed! I only handle my royals when cleaning, weighing or photographing and the odd time I show my snakes to kids in my town who ask nicely! _________________ 1.0 striped supersalmon DEAD
0.1 salmon poss TH moonglow DEAD
0.1 Orangasm DH ghost DEAD
1.0 pastel motley DEAD
2.0 sunglows 1.0 LIVING
1.1 pastel het snow 0.1 LIVING
2.2 albino boas DEAD
0.2 albino ara's DEAD
0.4 boa constrictors 0.2 LIVING |
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Dan Captivebred Communist
Joined: 08 Sep 2005 Posts: 1306
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Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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While what Pete has suggested is probably one of the better ways to go about it i will tell you that 2-3 days is the minimum you should wait.
Realistically you're not going to wait over a month before handling, which is fine - we all do it (no matter what anyone tells you), it comes down to the "new toy" syndrome.
All i ask is you give her a couple of days to digest the food and then only minimum handling until you are sure she has settled in properly. _________________ TFA
The future is bright, the future is a net like pattern.................
I'm NOT an expert, so if you don't want to know my opinion don't ask!! |
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CONFUSED I'm new here...
Joined: 26 Nov 2005 Posts: 6 Location: SURREY
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Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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If i don't handle her for a while is she likely to become less inclined to handling. The previous owner told me to get her out for an hour every night so she's used to it. i know about over handling but she does seem very happy to be held as i have got her out and kept her out for up to an hour and she was handled alot by her previous owners
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