Reptile Forum, Reptile Classifieds - CaptiveBred

[Sioux]

Ok Guys I have had a couple of requests for the "larger" animal Data, sorry its a bit long
Hope it helps, any questions please ask, there is no such thing as a stupid question except the one that remains unasked

Guinea pigs
Breeding season
No defined season but not as productive in the colder months.
Duration of oestrus approx 12hrs
Ovulation every 14-16days in unmated animals
Gestation 65days approx
Age at weaning 14 days
Sexually mature at 12 weeks
Post partum oestrus (in season immediately after litter is born) then normal cycle if not mated
Average litter 3-4
Viable breeding ages usually about 4 years (can be longer but fertility rate declines)
Usually bred at a ratio of 1 male to 3 females
Males can be left with the young

Rabbits
Breeding season
No defined season but not as productive in the colder months.
Duration of oestrus “prolonged”
Ovulation “induced” that is, females will ovulate at the point of mating, and the males will emit a high pitched scream and fall over backward as a sign of successful mating.
Gestation (Duration of pregnancy) 30 -32days depending on strain
Age at weaning 6-8 weeks
Sexually mature 6-9months (again dependant on strain used) the smaller the strain the shorter the times for all data
Next possible mating 3rd week of lactation or end of lactation
Average little sizes 6-8
Viable breeding age 4-5years
The best method is to have a few females housed separately and “pass the females” to the male for a few days at a time, or keep them all together in a large pen.
(Up to 1 male 5 females or just one to one) Either way the females should be separated in latter stages of pregnancy.
Rabbits also have the ability to “absorb” their unborn young if conditions are not favourable to raising a litter; this is more common in wild rabbits than domestic though

Mechanical Culling

Guinea pigs
Have the pig facing you on a non slip surface place your 1st and middle finger, one either side of the ears and curl them forward slightly into the base of the skull (you will feel the skull and your fingers should fit quite “nicely” into the gap between the skull and spine)
Pull the G pig from the surface Twist your hand over so the G pig is now lying on its side. raise your hand to just below shoulder height and make a movement rather like cracking a whip but follow through so your hand ends up by your side. (All this should only take a split second, once proficient) You are using your fingers rather like an anvil and as the body weight comes down, you will feel the neck dislocate where your fingers are.
If you’re not happy with the result (it does take a lot of practice) another quick flick will finish the job. You do need a certain amount of control if a little heavy handed you will end up with the head in your hand and the body some distance away behind you
PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE on dead ones and don’t start unless you are absolutely sure you can follow this through.
Young rabbits (weaning / pre weaning) and the SMALL strains can be culled in exactly the same way.

Rabbits

If you cover a rabbits eyes they become very relaxed very quickly (just a tip)

(i) Hold the rabbit by its back legs between the fingers of your LEFT hand ( I am right handed) support its body weight with the other hand and gently lower its body so the rabbit is hanging by your side gently swing the rabbit back and forth and it will relax quite quickly as it relaxes its ears will flop forward, as this happens, a heavy object ie a metal bar or your other hand ( but this will hurt you, if you get it wrong) is brought down with some force just at the base of the ears, this will either break ( dislocate) the neck if you hit just right, if you are slightly too high it will crush the skull but the end result is still the same

(ii) If you can subdue the rabbit, this is usually better if you have help,
Cover the rabbit’s eyes with a cloth and gently turn it over, on its back
Holding firmly and gently
Find the mid point in the lower jaw where it forms a V and push a sharp object from this point UP towards a mid point between & above the eyes and towards the ears and out through the top of the skull, its much easier than trying to go down through the skull as It “gives” under force. (The lower jaw is a lot softer as is the roof of the mouth)
This will pierce the brain and death is pretty instant, though you may need to wiggle the “skewer” a little just to make sure you have “destroyed” the brain

Sharp objects can be
A “Phillips” type screw driver, thin bladed knife etc

(iii) Get the rabbit on a non-slip surface, the right way up, get a firm grip of its back legs between your fingers or in your hand, place your other hand palm up under its chin, and your thumb just behind its ears ( not holding the ears) at and into the base of the skull. (Again you may find this easier if the rabbit’s eyes are covered first)
Remove the rabbit from the surface; lower your left hand (the one holding the head)
( reverse for left handers) so the rabbit is now diagonally across the front of you, holding the legs firmly, pull sharply down with your left hand, up with the right, & at the same time, tilt the rabbits head upwards sharply, so again you are using your thumb as an “anvil” this will break the neck quickly and cleanly.
Don’t hold by the ears as they may well come off or if you are holding the ears at the same time you will find that this restricts your “movement” Just let the ears hang naturally.
I hope this helps. Its so much easier to demonstrate than narrate, if I haven’t made things clear enough please ask! And again practice on dead ones.
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Chris - A boy named Sioux

[stubeanz]

pretty informative but probably couldnt do it myself the 2nd rabbit one sounds pretty gruesome
stu
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if you cant afford the vet, dont get the pet!