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Royal male issues!!
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Bazzer
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Joined: 05 Oct 2007
Posts: 313
Location: Horsham, West Sussex

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I find (f) easier to work with but (c) is just as easy with a conversion table. The point i was raising was the need for a gradient in the temperature and not a constant 30 degrees throughout. I don't believe I ever said anything about his temperature being too low (and that's for Crushers benefit Laughing Laughing )
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Lynne
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Joined: 30 Jul 2007
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Location: Kincardine-on-Forth

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i just stick to 'f' bazzer. and the snake wont eat until temps are correct, i agree with you there.
i also still work in feet and inches, and i need the dimensions of contis and rubs in feet and inches too!!!! Very Happy
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The Medusan
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Joined: 22 Sep 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bearing in mind the nature of the problem as described in the opening post it clearly, to my mind anyway, has nothing to do with temperatures - gradient or otherwise. There is no mention of any changes to the animal's husbandry from the previous year so the only logical conclusion is that the animal is now sexually mature and still mid breeding season, hence why it doesn't want food. Wink
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quasimodo
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Joined: 22 Mar 2007
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Location: Over the Hill in Horsham

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Medusan wrote:
still mid breeding season, hence why it doesn't want food. Wink


Not being 'funny' here at all, do you really mean mid breeding season ? Me in my sublime ignorance thought that breeding season was about Nov-March. Please explain Dave, thanks.

Sue
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The Medusan
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Joined: 22 Sep 2007
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Location: Portugal

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quasimodo wrote:
The Medusan wrote:
still mid breeding season, hence why it doesn't want food. Wink


Not being 'funny' here at all, do you really mean mid breeding season ? Me in my sublime ignorance thought that breeding season was about Nov-March. Please explain Dave, thanks.

Sue



Hi Sue, it's worth noting that there is no fixed breeding season as evidenced by the fact that the large breeders get eggs year round. Like most breeders I know, I generally cool my males around December and breed through to May, however, it's not at all uncommon for some females to develop follicles well into June, July and August. Males can remain in "breeding mode" for up to 9 months a year. In fact, last year my Spider which previously fed perfectly on defrost stopped eating throughout Dec - May whilst he was mating. However, when I brought the temperatures up and separated him he still refused food right up to November. He then started feeding again as if nothing had happened only to go back into breeding mode shortly thereafter. Smile
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Lynne
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

all mine have now started feeding then around 4 weeks ago, and have inconsistantly fed the past few months. i had one, which i moved into a viv, stop feeding. when i explored reasons, it was because the mat was set slightly low. i have raised it to right temp and she is feeding again. if they dont have a gradient they wont eat.
i think i would be slightly apprehensive of cooling, i may try without doing that. and i think breeding season is any time really!!!
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quasimodo
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Joined: 22 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dave and Lynne, it is nice to know that as long as I am careful with lighting and heat ( I presume ? ) the breeding season can start later than the accepted 'norm'. Gives more time to get some weight on females that are on the border-line of being heavy enough - as long as they WILL eat that is. Wink Royals, love 'em Rolling Eyes
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Bazzer
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Joined: 05 Oct 2007
Posts: 313
Location: Horsham, West Sussex

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Medusan wrote:
Bearing in mind the nature of the problem as described in the opening post it clearly, to my mind anyway, has nothing to do with temperatures - gradient or otherwise. There is no mention of any changes to the animal's husbandry from the previous year so the only logical conclusion is that the animal is now sexually mature and still mid breeding season, hence why it doesn't want food. Wink



I would tend to think that the very fact in the opening post of it only mentioning one single temperature range of 30c (86f) alone would be enough to suggest that non feeding in this scenario could well be as a result of husbandry issues. BP's feeding problems are commonly a cause of incorrect temperatures and this can be evidenced in multiple forums online. I'm not suggesting this alone is the reason why the snake isn't feeding, but reviewing the husbandry should be up there with the first things to consider, if not THE first thing to check, especially if the little guy has only just reached sexual maturity. It's a basic fact with most, if not all snakes, they need to be able to thermoregulate their bodies and the inability to do so, will know doubt cause stress and as most of us know, a stressed snake will most likely go off its food.
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Bazzer
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Location: Horsham, West Sussex

PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sharpy,

i think a good step into resolving this issue, would be for you to provide a few more details:

a. Enclosure type.
b. Size of enclosure.
c. Substrate
d. Temperature gradients
e. humidity
f. how you measure you temps (i.e. digital guages/ dial guages)
g. description of your hides
h. How you provide heat
i. Type of thermostats used
j. How often you have fed and what you have been feeding.
k. Where in your home you keep your enclosure.

A photo with this information would be very beneficial.

Baz
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The Medusan
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Joined: 22 Sep 2007
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Location: Portugal

PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Baz, I think you're missing the point - the animal has been feeding perfectly previously so why, this time, has it refused if it has been kept at the same temperature? Incidentally, the opening post doesn't indicate whether or not the temperature quoted is ambient or DTH so, again, it would be very wrong to assume husbandry is at fault.

Secondly - and despite what you may have read on other forums - temperatures are very, very rarely the cause of non feeding. In fact, only in the most extreme cases where the ambient temp drops below a level that inhibits comfortable digestion (i.e below 75 degrees F). I can prove this quite simply by the fact that I - and a number of my peers - keep BPs of various ages at a variety of temps (from 80 - 105 degrees F) who all feed (and breed) perfectly.

It is vital to remember that it is PERFECTLY NATURAL for Ball Pythons to stop feeding for extended periods of time. It is NOT stress related, neither is it anything to with husbandry it is simply they're biological make up.
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